Oliverio’s serving of braised veal cheeks topped with a gorgonzola fondue was a sea of richness, heavy like Sabbath is heavy. But like Sabbath, there’s a lightness of touch, a delicacy that lies behind the massiveness.
Oliverio’s serving of braised veal cheeks topped with a gorgonzola fondue was a sea of richness, heavy like Sabbath is heavy. But like Sabbath, there’s a lightness of touch, a delicacy that lies behind the massiveness.