Republic of Pie is a hidden gem in North Hollywood, well, not quite so hidden now that the high-profile Bow & Truss has replaced the auto shop next door. Pies of the day are on display in a glass counter where you place your order. You are handed a number and can take a seat on the patio, the wooden tables up front, or the comfy deep sofas of the cyber cafe. If you are waiting for an order to-go, you can stand and watch the bakers make the pies through a large glass window.
They really excel at the fruit pies. Their blueberry bursts with sweet berries, and the cherry is just tart enough to not be cloyingly sweet, but sweet enough to be able to shovel into your mouth fearlessly. I usually don’t like lemon meringue, but theirs has made me a convert. The crusts also hold up well to the fillings without being tough.
They serve pot pies that are well-seasoned and comforting. The Mac and Cheese under a pie crust is kind of gilding the lily, though. In other news, they serve a 24-hour cold-brewed iced coffee as well as standard iced coffee, and their scones are fresh and buttery and to die for.
I feel sorry for the pastry chef next door. I will never eat dessert at Bow & Truss now because I’m always anticipating pie.