The combination of fine dining and funky music may not yet be commonplace in LA, but at the recently-opened ADKT (Art Drinks Kitchen Tunes) in the Fairfax District, it is now possible to get your jam on while pondering the heady aroma of truffle mashed potatoes melting into a tender, beautifully grilled Chateaubriand, with a single sprig of thyme cutting through the richness. Can you get to that? We can, and did.
The house band, the Funkateers, pare down to vocals, guitar and percussion for the restaurant set, and their set of familiar classics went down easy with cocktails. It was a well-played and well-chosen group of songs, about the right level of intensity for a setting where you sometimes want to chat with your companion about the flavors that are hitting you, and sometimes are happy to get transported by sound to a happy place.Even in their “mocktail” versions, we were really impressed by the signature drinks from bartender Nathan Oliver. My friend Randy declared the Pause Cafe the best coffee cocktail he’d ever had, a fantastic break from sweet, syrupy espresso drinks. Mine was a lemongrass soda with raspberry puree, which had just the right amount of sweetness to be refreshing without crossing into soda-pop territory. I have every confidence these will stand up to their spirits perfectly well.
The Paris-inspired menu is delivered with elegance and finesse, an expert touch guiding the flavor combinations found within the Mushroom Forest. This modest starter combines the forest-floor earthiness suggested by the name with a mild acidity that ends up being one of my favorite starters of the year. Another appetizer, Big Eye Tuna ribbons, are essentially noodles cut from fish, delicately seasoned and tender.
The Chateaubriand that comes recommended as a house specialty does not disappoint. It’s a nice piece, beautifully cooked, touched by a sauce that works, and the recommended pairing with truffle mash really does add up to one of those bites that makes your mind cave in on itself. The salmon entree is equally a knockout, gorgeous fish with perfect, crispy skin, again treated simply but correctly. The attention to detail is exquisite, and the service is friendly and attentive.
For dessert, a silky chocolate mousse that makes me think about red wine. Ultimately the kitchen’s approach is more safe than revolutionary, but safe things are safe because most people find them delicious. Everything we were served was prepared with great care and precision; all of the decisions seemed fundamentally correct. This classy new joint should fill a niche in this city, for folks who want a spot to hear some quality tunes over a nice dinner in an elegant space.
All photos by Bob Lee for the LA Beat. Thanks to ADKT for the invitation.
